At this point in my surfing life,
|Team MGM -- Dean Luke, Rick Colletto, Mike Bakos and Derek Ferrar (standing, left to right) -- rode with North Shore luminary Jock Sutherland (seated).|
it’s mainly about fantasy. I mean, let’s face it: After thirty years of floundering around in the lineup, it’s basically all downhill from here. So I pretend to be the surfer I never was: fantasy big-wave charger, fantasy globe-trotting soul surfer, fantasy crusty local. It’s all in my head.